Straight Answer
Down here humidity is the real problem. A system that is too big short-cycles, leaves the air damp, and dies early. We do the load calculation for your house instead of matching whatever tonnage was there before.
If the ductwork is leaking into your attic, we will tell you that too. A new unit on bad ducts is money you will not get back.
What We Handle
How It Goes
We measure the house, look at the ducts, and check what the current system is really doing.
Equipment, tonnage, SEER, and warranty in plain language.
Permitted work, scheduled so you are not without cooling overnight.
Charged, balanced, tested, and inspected before we call it done.
Common Questions
The right way is a Manual J load calculation for your specific house, not just matching whatever tonnage was there before. An oversized unit short-cycles, never pulls the humidity out, and dies early, which is the most common mistake we get called to fix down here.
Usually an oversized or short-cycling system, or ductwork leaking into the attic. In South Florida, controlling humidity matters as much as temperature, so we size and seal for both, not just for cold air.
About 10 to 15 years. Our systems run nearly year-round and coastal salt air is hard on the coils, so Florida units wear faster than the national average. Regular maintenance stretches that out.
Yes. A/C changeouts are permitted and inspected in Miami-Dade, and larger mechanical jobs also require a recorded Notice of Commencement. We handle the paperwork and schedule so you are not without cooling overnight.
Not on its own. A new, efficient unit on leaky ducts is money you will not get back. We check the ducts as part of the assessment and tell you if sealing or replacing them is the better spend.
The right size comes from a Manual J load calculation, not a guess off square footage. In Florida we generally figure roughly 400 to 500 square feet per ton, but insulation, windows, ceiling height, and sun exposure all move it. If a contractor quotes tonnage without measuring, they are guessing.
AUTO, almost always. On ON, the fan runs constantly and re-evaporates moisture back into the house, which is why it feels humid. On AUTO the fan only runs while cooling, so the system actually pulls humidity out — a big deal in South Florida.
Rinse the outdoor coil with fresh water regularly (roughly every couple of weeks within a few miles of the water), consider coated coils on a new unit, and place the condenser out of direct salt spray where possible. Salt corrosion is the main reason coastal units die early, so we plan for it.